Saintem is one of several Right Bank properties under the supervision of Durantou. It is a ‘single parcel’ estate, planted almost exclusively to Merlot in the commune of Saint-Étienne-de-Lisse. Here, on the eastern flank of Saint-Émilion’s limestone plateau, the soils are cooler, interwoven with clay and loosely covered by gravels. It’s a tricky spot for the later-ripening Cabernet so Denis stuck with Merlot. Hardly a novice with the variety, he is better known for his acclaimed Pomerol estate, L’Eglise-Clinet (2015 costs £200 a bottle). And with another two Merlot-dominant estates in the Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation, Durantou has quietly become one of the winemaking kings of the Right Bank.